Why The “Wrong Coat Theory” Will Change The Way You Dress This Winter

Prada Spring/Summer 2024

“Wrong” shoes have cropped up everywhere in 2023: from red carpets to city streets. They’ve become particularly noticeable since stylist Allison Bornstein shared her “wrong shoe” theory – a styling hack that involves adorning an outfit with unexpected footwear. Think: flip-flops and trousers, sweeping maxi dresses and ballet flats.

On the spring/summer 2024 runways, a whole new “wrong” fashion phenomenon emerged. We’re calling it the “wrong coat” theory. At Prada, worn-in barn jackets came with belted pencil skirts and blouses; at Altuzarra, gossamer-thin dresses were layered up with flecked woven coats; at Dries Van Noten, mini-shorts came with trenches; at Gucci, a bubblegum-pink silk and lace slip was styled with a khaki parka and at Khaite, look nine was comprised of a rigid leather jacket and tasselled maxi dress.

What constitutes a “wrong coat” pairing, you may ask? Like the “wrong shoe” theory, it’s all about creating a look that’s unexpected. Perhaps it’s wearing a maxi hemline coat with a thigh-skimming skirt, and vice-versa. Or fusing fabrics of different thicknesses and textures: a sequinned party dress with a leather jacket, a silky cami with a thick wool blazer. Then, there’s experimenting with proportions: trying oversized outerwear atop a more fitted silhouette.

This season proposed combinations that felt intentionally carefree. The styling, too, felt deliberately nonchalant – a mood that’s easy to emulate with pieces that probably already exist in your wardrobe. Here, Vogue offers “wrong coat” outfit inspiration, courtesy of the catwalks.