Joewsef Maalouf, a skincare expert also known as @SkinFits online, shares a measured perspective when it comes to PLLA as an ingredient in skincare: “While many brands may capitalise on the current hype surrounding poly-lactic acid (PLLA) for its collagen-stimulating effects in injectables, topically, it cannot penetrate the stratum corneum (the skin’s outermost layer) to achieve the same results.” Maalouf adds, “When applied topically, poly-lactic acid serves different purposes depending on the formulation. For instance, a physical exfoliant gently removes dead skin cells without being overly abrasive. As a film-forming agent, it creates a breathable layer on the skin, locking in moisture and leaving the skin smooth.”
Dr Kersh underscores its transformative potential as an injectable, stating, “By integrating Sculptra with advanced regenerative techniques such as exosomes, micro-needling, and platelet-rich plasma (PRP), we can amplify collagen production and cellular repair, achieving results that are both profound and enduring. This synergy underscores Sculptra’s role not just as a standalone treatment but as part of a holistic approach to aesthetic and regenerative wellness.”
How to incorporate PLLA into your routine
Unlike some actives that require extensive downtime or risk irritation, PLLA is surprisingly low-maintenance. However, its application should still be deliberate.
“Start with a PLLA serum or ampoule after cleansing,” advises Dr Kersh, “Because PLLA is designed to stimulate collagen over time, consistency is key. Pair it with a good moisturiser to seal in hydration.” Wooyeon Park adds, “When adding PLLA to your skincare routine, it’s important to be patient, as its collagen-boosting effects take time to show results. Consistency is crucial, so regular use is key to seeing long-term benefits.” She also recommends pairing PLLA with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and peptides for optimal results.
Maalouf’s advice on topical PLLA products includes,…
