PARIS — With Pharrell Williams’ celebrity extravaganza at Louis Vuitton, the Fête de la Musique and the Pride parade, Paris was in feel-good mode during the recent men’s collections and the trade shows were no exception, with buyers and brands largely upbeat for spring 2024.
Tranoï took place at the Gaïté Lyrique, a former concert hall on the edge of the Marais that just reopened as a cultural center aiming to bridge creative industries, where the trade show has signed for three seasons through 2024, when pressure on venues will be particularly tight due to the Paris Olympics.
With 50 exhibitors this session, the space has the possibility of expanding further for future editions, said Tranoï chief executive officer Boris Provost. As well as a runway show for South Korean designers under the trade show’s partnership with Seoul Fashion Week — a first during men’s — the show was also the venue for the first Paris presentation from Bed J.W. Ford on June 25.
“We want to establish the Gaïté Lyrique as a place for fashion events, during and outside fashion week,” Provost explained.
As the show continues to shift toward an edgier offer during men’s collections, it highlighted the new wave of designers offering genderless collections and pieces more traditionally associated with the “feminine” wardrobe.
This was the subject of a conference held on the first day of the show, where consulting firm Leherpeur presented the findings of a study into new consumption habits, noticeably among Gen Z consumers. “It’s a true mutation,” said Leherpeur Paris director of strategy and forecasting Sabrina Pelissier. “Wearing items traditionally associated with the women’s wardrobe is no longer a subject of gender definition.”
“It’s very important today to be mixed, we don’t have barriers,” said designer Armine Ohanyan, who habitually shows at Tranoï during women’s and was presenting a genderless…
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