White shirts have always been a wardrobe binder, a staple generally regarded as a vanilla basic – nothing worth getting too excited about. However, after several seasons of designers exploring “the joy of dressing up”, they are now all about the “speed of getting dressed”, with hard-wearing staples and everyday workwear heroes being heralded as the cult buys of the moment. Forget sequin minidresses and disco-ready platforms, for autumn 2023 buyers are heavily backing crew-neck jumpers and black wool coats.
The humble white shirt has made the transition from the “work” section of women’s wardrobes into the spotlight, earning a place in Vogue’s autumn/winter 2023 trend report. Here, a non-exhaustive list of the brands that have made us lust after a white shirt or shirting hybrid: Loewe, Prada, Versace, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Tods, Gucci, Christian Dior, Emilia Wickstead, Proenza Schouler and Sacai. The collections also offered a multitude of new ways to style the piece – it appeared tucked and un-tucked; buttoned up to the top and almost open; oversized as a dress, and barely visible under layers.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored the idea of a uniform in Prada’s autumn/winter 2023 collection, tapping into the ceremonial trappings of brides, army officers and nurses. The white shirt is the linchpin of so many uniforms, from bankers to sixth formers to baristas at Pret a Manger, and Prada put a utilitarian spin on the classic with pockets at the chest and a stiff, buttoned-up finish. The accompanying black mini skirt and bow-embellished pointed flats, meanwhile, added fashion-forward flair. Alexander McQueen’s take had more in common with Cate Blanchett in Tár, with structured silhouettes and severe styling. “It was looking at anatomy, the anatomy of tailoring,” Sarah Burton told Vogue of her collection.
Valentino went all-out corporate, as almost every single look featured some sort of spin on a white collar and black tie double…
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