In 2022, the pre-fall season—the in-between collections that rarely get as much attention as their fall and spring counterparts—made history. For its Métiers d’Art 2023 show, Chanel became the first European or US-based luxury house to ever put on a runway show in Sub-Saharan Africa, taking its pre-fall wears to Dakar, the capital of Senegal. As part of a three-day program immediately following Dakar Fashion Week, the label collaborated with local artists, dancers, musicians, and writers, highlighting them both at the presentation and throughout the week. The robust programming could have overshadowed the clothing—which Chanel’s show notes described as inspired by “the pop-soul-fun-disco-punk decade” of the ’70s—but Virginie Viard staged a boho-focused collection that had the crowd (which included Naomi Campbell and Pharrell Williams ) on its feet. Later, in March 2023, Dior decamped to Mumbai to mark the launch of its pre-fall collection with a spectacular show against the backdrop of the historic Gateway to India. The presentation served as a celebration of traditional Indian craftsmanship and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s decades-long collaboration with the master artisans at the city’s storied Chanakya ateliers. Proenza Schouler, meanwhile, used the pre-season as an opportunity to rethink its everyday, well-made, wearable garments. And at Diesel, Glenn Martens continued to push the envelope of what denim can do, firmly cementing his place in the house’s canon. This year is all about proving how crucial to the fashion trend cycle the in-between seasons can be. Check back often as we keep track of the most outstanding looks.
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