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Ever heard of the Hemline Index? It’s the idea that skirt lengths reflect the economy – rising when it booms and dropping during downturns. While it’s a theory that may have held some truth back in the 20th century, in this day and age what women wear is rarely about GDP and more about identity and personal choice. So it’s unsurprising that the autumn runways had hemlines stretched in both directions. Rick Owens sent out maxi-skirts with thigh-high slits, slashed open from mid-thigh down. Miu Miu veered into librarian chic – skirts grazed the knees and were paired with knitted cardigans. Coperni paired a micro miniskirt with a zipped leather jacket and split-toe sneakers, evoking a sharp, femme fatale energy. If there’s a common thread on the autumn runways, it’s that no single skirt trend dominates. The garment has emerged as a canvas for self-expression, not social commentary. Hemlines once signalled the mood of the market, but today they reflect something more powerful – the freedom to dress how one wants.
Miu Miu autumn/winter 2025. Photo: Getty
Chloe autumn/winter 2025. Photo: Getty
Previously tied to moral codes, religious doctrine or conversely, rebellion, skirt lengths today are largely divorced from such narrow definitions. “The notion of hemline history only loosely applies to the 20th century. Women’s knees weren’t seen in Western fashion before the 1920s. In the 21st century, the range of hemline heights available reflects the multiplicity of fashion,” explains author and historian Hilary Davidson. She believes that women today are expressing themselves through skirts of all sorts of lengths. This shift is particularly apparent in the embrace of longer silhouettes – a return, yes, but not a regression. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali tapped into romanticism with ankle-length chiffon skirts – some sheer, some sensually translucent. Meanwhile, Fendi leaned into ultra-feminity, offering everything from a ruffled pink pencil skirt to a sculpted black…
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