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The Chanel Métiers d’Art collection is, in many ways, an embodiment of that same reverence. There is no higher stage for craftsmanship than the Métiers d’Art show – the maison’s living love letter to fashion artistry. Some pieces demanded 700 hours of handwork, each stitch and sequin an act of devoted precision. At the heart of the collection is the virtuosity of Chanel’s 19M ateliers – a cultural and artisanal hub for 11 maisons of Métiers d’Art under Chanel’s umbrella just outside of Paris. Envision over 600 artisans working for Maison Lesage’s embroidery, Atelier Montex’s beadwork, Goossens’ alchemy of metal and Massaro’s architectural shoemaking. It is here, among thread, feather and tweed, that the talents of the artisans soar, shedding light on the techniques, inspirations and cultural echoes behind the collection’s pieces.
Photo: Chanel jacket and trousers in monochrome black lacquered tweed, jacquard-woven from satin ribbons, accented with Lunéville crochet embroidery, requiring 131 hours of savoir-faire. The Massaro boots in suede calfskin and kidskin are hand-finished with a beech wood heel and lambskin lining, crafted over 20 hours
Thomas, a textile designer at Lesage, offers insight into his craft, underscored in the jacket and shirt of Look 11: “This fabric mixes different laces and fancy threads in dark shades like black, brown and purple,” he explains. “It has both a shiny and matte appearance, inspired by the Coromandel screens in Coco Chanel’s apartment. The lace patterns, sometimes layered, recall the mountains painted on these screens. It’s a complex fabric to work with, because it’s made up of several laces, sometimes superposed.”
The collection was steeped in elements both natural and surreal: water-ripple motifs danced across midnight-blue silk, while air was suggested in light tulles embroidered with cumulus clouds. One look was interpreted as “denim mist”. Fire and earth came through in…
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