PARIS — It was a Paris Fashion Week of emotional highs, goodbyes and decisive debuts. It all played out against the backdrop of the still-strong trend of “quite luxury,” which was pushed ever so subtly into the background with the growing spectacle of celebrity-driven shows and front rows.
The departures of Gabriella Hearst from Chloé and Sarah Burton from Alexander McQueen were especially notable as they were two of the very few women to head up large fashion houses. “The changing of the guard and farewells to both…were bittersweet moments throughout the week. The exiting leadership from two visionary female designers will be deeply missed,” noted Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus.
Louise Trotter’s debut collection at Carven was widely praised by buyers, earning mentions on many favorite show and best new talent lists and with items plucked as top trends or new buys. “Trotter promises a future full of elegance and delicacy. It was a very beautiful first start for a clean and super feminine aesthetic,” said Samaritaine Paris’ merchandising director fashion and accessories Victoria Dartigues.
Peter Do’s Paris Fashion Week debut was a standout for many, while Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is being picked by several stores.
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe had another triumphant season, with his high-waisted pants and Squeeze bag’s return as runway standouts, while Courrèges continued elevation, particularly in accessories, also received a lot of love from buyers.
Other favorites were Demna’s emotionally charged Balenciaga show, cited for bridging the gap from the runway to real people and his inclusive use of different body shapes and sizes; Valentino’s performance piece featuring FKA Twigs and a collection of cutouts to speak about freedom in a female body, and Stella McCartney’s morning market that demonstrated how her collection is infused with her sustainable ethos.
