The East London-based makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench is known for a style that may, more than any other working artist today, define the cultural moment. Her looks are visceral, provocative, and often humorous, touching on the zeitgeist in ways at once utterly obvious (why isn’t anyone else going there?) and sharply subversive (that’s why). Think exaggerated prosthetic lips, ultra glossy and so large they nearly touch the nose; the off-kilter, kaleidoscopic color of Byredo’s debut makeup collection; or a soft classic look subtly turned on its head with bleached brows for Burberry. The ethereal animal prosthetics that Ffrench developed for Collina Strada’s Fall 2023 show may be her most recent viral sensation. Her work is emotive and full-on; there’s a physicality to it that feels less based in idealization than an exaggeration or play on reality. Color is a focus. She’s not a minimalist or a “beauty is fantasy” type. At least not in the traditional sense.
In addition to the vision she lends to the runways of designers like Vivienne Westwood, Thom Browne and Off-White, Ffrench has also consulted on formulations and beauty direction for Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and others. A year ago, she launched her own line, Isamaya. Today, she’ll introduce Industrial 2.0, the follow up collection to the BDSM-inflected Industrial. Products include gunmetal and rusty orange lip glosses, with ginger oil and capsicum frutescens (also known as chili pepper) fruit extract to give the lips a vinyl-like shine and bee stung look, and an eye palette full of shimmery hues that range from pearly rose to glimmering slime green.
In advance of the launch, we spoke to Ffrench about why she felt compelled to launch her own brand, the beauty secret she got from Kate Moss, and just what is going on with her infamous dick lipstick.
Tell me the origins of your brand. How did you come up with the original concept?
Obviously, I’ve worked in makeup for a really long time. I felt…
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